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Exploring Greece's Little Island With the Quiet Soul & Deep Blue Waters

Exploring Greece's Little Island With the Quiet Soul & Deep Blue Waters


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If you are a discerning traveler who delights in an elegant stay, romance-inspiring views, and local gastronomy, but seek a place with a casual vibe, you'll fall in love with Santorini. The Santorini of today is moving from courting the daily onslaught of large ship tour groups to fewer travelers who will stay awhile to appreciate her history, monasteries, unique cuisine, local wine, sensual sunsets, languid dining and sumptuous accommodations.

One of the best months to travel to the island is early May or September in the fall. Hotels and shops will be open for the season but it is not overly hot yet. Cruise ship travel is lighter and subsequently the tiny streets and alleys are not engorged with panting day-tourists vying with the legendary donkeys for the fleeting shade. You might even find a taxi when you need one.

Santorini is a 45-minute hop from Athens via plane; however, the caveat to island hopping by air is that you have to go to Athens for a stop-over and then catch another flight. And since this is Greece, your plane may run late—especially if it’s mid-afternoon—so allow extra time to make connections.

Photo Courtesy of Iconic Santorini

For lodging, the five-star Iconic Santorini, a boutique cave hotel off Gali Square and from the Mantis Collection, is where you simply must drop your bags and stay awhile. Traditional, elegant cave rooms are built into the volcanic rock caldera. Connected by stairs and stone pathways wrapping the hotel, the rooms, spa, pergola restaurant and pool, all have a view of the sea. Everything is bathed in brilliant white-wash contrasting with the noon-day sparkle of the deep blue Mediterranean below.

Photo Courtesy of Iconic Santorini

Iconic Santorini has a casual elegance and level of luxury service so rare that you don't notice it; you just feel relaxed and looked after. The morning starts with fresh-squeezed orange juice and whatever you wish for breakfast, served upon your request on your private patio. If you are lucky, the young, talented native-born chef Konstantinos Avgoulis may provide you some rose petal jam from his home garden along with his heavenly croissants. Dinner at sunset is memorable under the hotel's pergola paired with remarkable Santorini wines.

To find your Santorini, especially if this is your first visit, hire Your Greek Friend (a travel company boasting personalized itineraries), and book a tour day with partners Dimitris and Ruth. Beach trips, boat trips, private visits to the Monastery of Prophet Elias of Thera (Thira) to see the manuscripts, wine tasting, farm visits—they do any type of bespoke excursion and adventure that you want. With easy-going personalities you’ll be calling them “friend” in minutes.

Their local connections and knowledge of hidden Santorini really make the difference in what you get to experience while there. As for the clever business name, it was inspired by a visit with a friend who took the day off work to share the best spots and things they like. If you’re looking to delve more into Greek culture, Immersion Classes are offered at Hellenic Culture Center. Programs include language crash courses, art, poetry, music, singing and cooking classes.

Photo Courtesy of MW Media

Santorini will surprise you with the smallest, most flavorful fruits and vegetables. Due to the lack of water here, once a plant is established, it is on its own to survive. As with the indigenous wine grapes, the little tomatoes have a concentrated flavor. Be sure to try the addictive Santorini Tomatokeftedes (tomato balls) made with fresh tomatoes, onion, mint, flour or farina and Kefalotyri cheese, which is then fried crisp.

One thing you’ll discover is that heritage grape vine stock is trained to curl around itself, forming a basket to protect the fruit and young leaves from strong winds and relentless sun. The secret is in its terrain: no water, extreme sun and wind and lava soils which produces wine with great minerality and character. All the vineyards at Estate Argyros—Assyrtiko, Aidani, Athiri and Mavrotragano—are planted with the indigenous heritage grapes. Look for P.D.O. Designation on the label telling you the wine is completely grown and produced in Santorini. A famous wine mentioned by the Venetians in the 1500s, is called Vin Santo. It is made from sun-dried white grapes, a mix of various indigenous grapes, aged a minimum of four years in oak barrels and up to 20 years for the smoothest ones.

Photo Courtesy of MW Media

In the village of Pyrgos, Santo Wines offers tours and spectacular views on the shaded terrace overlooking the caldera. A fantastic idea is to sit here with friends and a bottle of the chilled bubbly overlooking the caldera. When it comes to dining in Santorini, you’ll most likely not have a bad meal here. Selene Restaurant has culinary educator Georgia Tsara who is also a sommelier and restaurant manager. She offers an innovative cooking class discussing local products such as fava bean, tomatoes, grapes and capers mixed with influences from Egypt, Turkey, France, Venice, Libya and Persia.

Santorini should be savored. Take your time. Rest when you want, drink what you want, and then allow the magic of her stark beauty to slowly sink into your soul.


BVI’s to Bahamas March 2018
840nm
5 nights, 6 days at sea

We left our mooring in Sopers Hole, Tortola, at 0945 March 28th. It was only then I thought about the length of the passage and realised it was going to be nearly half the time it took us to cross the Atlantic! It was also the longest passage Ben and I would have done with just the two of us. Despite these facts I didn’t feel fazed, I suppose now having quite a few miles under our belts.


The conditions for the trip were predicted to be a substantial swell of around 2.8m and wind at about 60 degrees off the bow for the first day, then coming around to behind us by day two with the swell dropping off. Sounded great! However we were well aware by now that weather forecasts (even when using Predict Wind which compares 4 forecasts) are quite often wrong.


So we set off hoping for the best. We had a good start, with about 17 kts on the beam and we were cruising along at about 6 kts but once out of the protection of the islands the conditions were as expected and I started to feel the effects of seasickness, which is usual for me when the wind and swell are forward of the beam. Ben very rarely feels seasick but having been in the calms of the Virgin Islands for a few days he felt he’d lost his sea legs and also felt pretty rough.
We popped some seasickness pills and I lay down for a bit which normally sorts it out, even if temporarily.


After lunch the wind picked up a bit, and hovering around 20kts Ben put a reef in the main. The angle was definitely more north than forecast but we hoped it would come around by the next day.


That night turned out to be rough! The swell increased and we slammed into it all night. The wind was nearly double what was forecast and we overheard on the radio a rescue in progress which was slightly unnerving.


We stupidly hadn’t pre prepared any meals so I battled away in the galley, getting thrown about when attempting to stand, so everything and to be done sitting down or keeping low when moving around. Nightmare. I tend to get pretty grumpy when I’m either seasick or struggling with the conditions and I remember saying at one particularly heated moment “I wouldn’t recommend ANYONE going sailing like this!”. Poor Ben. Thankfully he usually just laughs which is a good thing in the long run ha!

That night I was pretty useless, only feeling half ok if I stayed lying down and only sleeping fitfully. Before I’d ever been seasick I used to think it was just feeling a bit queasy and surely you can just man up and plough on through…but the truth is it can be really crippling, to the point you just sort of shut down. Ben ended up taking watch all night, just cat napping for 15 minutes at a time. Bloody nightmare. We took a bit of a battering actually over the next couple of days. The wind dropped off a bit but left an uncomfortable swell.
The wind didn’t come around properly until the forth morning when we could finally get the twin headsails out! Bliss.

Everything was calm again, happy Nicki and a happy captain as he described it like a magic carpet ride, so smooth you can almost forget you’re at sea.

Sailing downwind is the best, life was good again. However with such smooth conditions there tends to be a lack of things to do. We watched a lot of films and read a lot. Baked bread, made soup, had showers on deck. And then the generator broke down (same old story) so that kept Ben busy for a bit! After a bit of fiddling it turned out to be low oil which automatically makes it cut out, which is good…but we’re still to figure out the source of the leak. However the whole thing needs rebuilding sometime soon so it’ll probably wait till then.

I was sent up to the bow to watch for bombies and try to distinguish the different colours of water, determining depth (dark blues through to lightish blue is ok, but very light blue or greeny brown means it’s too shallow). We had our depth sounders as well but spotting the bombies in time to steer clear was quite nerve-wracking!


We picked our way through the Sound, just about scraping the bottom in depths of under 2 metres! Eventually dropping the hook around 7pm it took a while to grip in the coral sand type bottom.

Then it was time for a well earned glass of wine after a long, and at times challenging passage, and to look forward to friends arriving from England in three days time!


BVI’s to Bahamas March 2018
840nm
5 nights, 6 days at sea

We left our mooring in Sopers Hole, Tortola, at 0945 March 28th. It was only then I thought about the length of the passage and realised it was going to be nearly half the time it took us to cross the Atlantic! It was also the longest passage Ben and I would have done with just the two of us. Despite these facts I didn’t feel fazed, I suppose now having quite a few miles under our belts.


The conditions for the trip were predicted to be a substantial swell of around 2.8m and wind at about 60 degrees off the bow for the first day, then coming around to behind us by day two with the swell dropping off. Sounded great! However we were well aware by now that weather forecasts (even when using Predict Wind which compares 4 forecasts) are quite often wrong.


So we set off hoping for the best. We had a good start, with about 17 kts on the beam and we were cruising along at about 6 kts but once out of the protection of the islands the conditions were as expected and I started to feel the effects of seasickness, which is usual for me when the wind and swell are forward of the beam. Ben very rarely feels seasick but having been in the calms of the Virgin Islands for a few days he felt he’d lost his sea legs and also felt pretty rough.
We popped some seasickness pills and I lay down for a bit which normally sorts it out, even if temporarily.


After lunch the wind picked up a bit, and hovering around 20kts Ben put a reef in the main. The angle was definitely more north than forecast but we hoped it would come around by the next day.


That night turned out to be rough! The swell increased and we slammed into it all night. The wind was nearly double what was forecast and we overheard on the radio a rescue in progress which was slightly unnerving.


We stupidly hadn’t pre prepared any meals so I battled away in the galley, getting thrown about when attempting to stand, so everything and to be done sitting down or keeping low when moving around. Nightmare. I tend to get pretty grumpy when I’m either seasick or struggling with the conditions and I remember saying at one particularly heated moment “I wouldn’t recommend ANYONE going sailing like this!”. Poor Ben. Thankfully he usually just laughs which is a good thing in the long run ha!

That night I was pretty useless, only feeling half ok if I stayed lying down and only sleeping fitfully. Before I’d ever been seasick I used to think it was just feeling a bit queasy and surely you can just man up and plough on through…but the truth is it can be really crippling, to the point you just sort of shut down. Ben ended up taking watch all night, just cat napping for 15 minutes at a time. Bloody nightmare. We took a bit of a battering actually over the next couple of days. The wind dropped off a bit but left an uncomfortable swell.
The wind didn’t come around properly until the forth morning when we could finally get the twin headsails out! Bliss.

Everything was calm again, happy Nicki and a happy captain as he described it like a magic carpet ride, so smooth you can almost forget you’re at sea.

Sailing downwind is the best, life was good again. However with such smooth conditions there tends to be a lack of things to do. We watched a lot of films and read a lot. Baked bread, made soup, had showers on deck. And then the generator broke down (same old story) so that kept Ben busy for a bit! After a bit of fiddling it turned out to be low oil which automatically makes it cut out, which is good…but we’re still to figure out the source of the leak. However the whole thing needs rebuilding sometime soon so it’ll probably wait till then.

I was sent up to the bow to watch for bombies and try to distinguish the different colours of water, determining depth (dark blues through to lightish blue is ok, but very light blue or greeny brown means it’s too shallow). We had our depth sounders as well but spotting the bombies in time to steer clear was quite nerve-wracking!


We picked our way through the Sound, just about scraping the bottom in depths of under 2 metres! Eventually dropping the hook around 7pm it took a while to grip in the coral sand type bottom.

Then it was time for a well earned glass of wine after a long, and at times challenging passage, and to look forward to friends arriving from England in three days time!


BVI’s to Bahamas March 2018
840nm
5 nights, 6 days at sea

We left our mooring in Sopers Hole, Tortola, at 0945 March 28th. It was only then I thought about the length of the passage and realised it was going to be nearly half the time it took us to cross the Atlantic! It was also the longest passage Ben and I would have done with just the two of us. Despite these facts I didn’t feel fazed, I suppose now having quite a few miles under our belts.


The conditions for the trip were predicted to be a substantial swell of around 2.8m and wind at about 60 degrees off the bow for the first day, then coming around to behind us by day two with the swell dropping off. Sounded great! However we were well aware by now that weather forecasts (even when using Predict Wind which compares 4 forecasts) are quite often wrong.


So we set off hoping for the best. We had a good start, with about 17 kts on the beam and we were cruising along at about 6 kts but once out of the protection of the islands the conditions were as expected and I started to feel the effects of seasickness, which is usual for me when the wind and swell are forward of the beam. Ben very rarely feels seasick but having been in the calms of the Virgin Islands for a few days he felt he’d lost his sea legs and also felt pretty rough.
We popped some seasickness pills and I lay down for a bit which normally sorts it out, even if temporarily.


After lunch the wind picked up a bit, and hovering around 20kts Ben put a reef in the main. The angle was definitely more north than forecast but we hoped it would come around by the next day.


That night turned out to be rough! The swell increased and we slammed into it all night. The wind was nearly double what was forecast and we overheard on the radio a rescue in progress which was slightly unnerving.


We stupidly hadn’t pre prepared any meals so I battled away in the galley, getting thrown about when attempting to stand, so everything and to be done sitting down or keeping low when moving around. Nightmare. I tend to get pretty grumpy when I’m either seasick or struggling with the conditions and I remember saying at one particularly heated moment “I wouldn’t recommend ANYONE going sailing like this!”. Poor Ben. Thankfully he usually just laughs which is a good thing in the long run ha!

That night I was pretty useless, only feeling half ok if I stayed lying down and only sleeping fitfully. Before I’d ever been seasick I used to think it was just feeling a bit queasy and surely you can just man up and plough on through…but the truth is it can be really crippling, to the point you just sort of shut down. Ben ended up taking watch all night, just cat napping for 15 minutes at a time. Bloody nightmare. We took a bit of a battering actually over the next couple of days. The wind dropped off a bit but left an uncomfortable swell.
The wind didn’t come around properly until the forth morning when we could finally get the twin headsails out! Bliss.

Everything was calm again, happy Nicki and a happy captain as he described it like a magic carpet ride, so smooth you can almost forget you’re at sea.

Sailing downwind is the best, life was good again. However with such smooth conditions there tends to be a lack of things to do. We watched a lot of films and read a lot. Baked bread, made soup, had showers on deck. And then the generator broke down (same old story) so that kept Ben busy for a bit! After a bit of fiddling it turned out to be low oil which automatically makes it cut out, which is good…but we’re still to figure out the source of the leak. However the whole thing needs rebuilding sometime soon so it’ll probably wait till then.

I was sent up to the bow to watch for bombies and try to distinguish the different colours of water, determining depth (dark blues through to lightish blue is ok, but very light blue or greeny brown means it’s too shallow). We had our depth sounders as well but spotting the bombies in time to steer clear was quite nerve-wracking!


We picked our way through the Sound, just about scraping the bottom in depths of under 2 metres! Eventually dropping the hook around 7pm it took a while to grip in the coral sand type bottom.

Then it was time for a well earned glass of wine after a long, and at times challenging passage, and to look forward to friends arriving from England in three days time!


BVI’s to Bahamas March 2018
840nm
5 nights, 6 days at sea

We left our mooring in Sopers Hole, Tortola, at 0945 March 28th. It was only then I thought about the length of the passage and realised it was going to be nearly half the time it took us to cross the Atlantic! It was also the longest passage Ben and I would have done with just the two of us. Despite these facts I didn’t feel fazed, I suppose now having quite a few miles under our belts.


The conditions for the trip were predicted to be a substantial swell of around 2.8m and wind at about 60 degrees off the bow for the first day, then coming around to behind us by day two with the swell dropping off. Sounded great! However we were well aware by now that weather forecasts (even when using Predict Wind which compares 4 forecasts) are quite often wrong.


So we set off hoping for the best. We had a good start, with about 17 kts on the beam and we were cruising along at about 6 kts but once out of the protection of the islands the conditions were as expected and I started to feel the effects of seasickness, which is usual for me when the wind and swell are forward of the beam. Ben very rarely feels seasick but having been in the calms of the Virgin Islands for a few days he felt he’d lost his sea legs and also felt pretty rough.
We popped some seasickness pills and I lay down for a bit which normally sorts it out, even if temporarily.


After lunch the wind picked up a bit, and hovering around 20kts Ben put a reef in the main. The angle was definitely more north than forecast but we hoped it would come around by the next day.


That night turned out to be rough! The swell increased and we slammed into it all night. The wind was nearly double what was forecast and we overheard on the radio a rescue in progress which was slightly unnerving.


We stupidly hadn’t pre prepared any meals so I battled away in the galley, getting thrown about when attempting to stand, so everything and to be done sitting down or keeping low when moving around. Nightmare. I tend to get pretty grumpy when I’m either seasick or struggling with the conditions and I remember saying at one particularly heated moment “I wouldn’t recommend ANYONE going sailing like this!”. Poor Ben. Thankfully he usually just laughs which is a good thing in the long run ha!

That night I was pretty useless, only feeling half ok if I stayed lying down and only sleeping fitfully. Before I’d ever been seasick I used to think it was just feeling a bit queasy and surely you can just man up and plough on through…but the truth is it can be really crippling, to the point you just sort of shut down. Ben ended up taking watch all night, just cat napping for 15 minutes at a time. Bloody nightmare. We took a bit of a battering actually over the next couple of days. The wind dropped off a bit but left an uncomfortable swell.
The wind didn’t come around properly until the forth morning when we could finally get the twin headsails out! Bliss.

Everything was calm again, happy Nicki and a happy captain as he described it like a magic carpet ride, so smooth you can almost forget you’re at sea.

Sailing downwind is the best, life was good again. However with such smooth conditions there tends to be a lack of things to do. We watched a lot of films and read a lot. Baked bread, made soup, had showers on deck. And then the generator broke down (same old story) so that kept Ben busy for a bit! After a bit of fiddling it turned out to be low oil which automatically makes it cut out, which is good…but we’re still to figure out the source of the leak. However the whole thing needs rebuilding sometime soon so it’ll probably wait till then.

I was sent up to the bow to watch for bombies and try to distinguish the different colours of water, determining depth (dark blues through to lightish blue is ok, but very light blue or greeny brown means it’s too shallow). We had our depth sounders as well but spotting the bombies in time to steer clear was quite nerve-wracking!


We picked our way through the Sound, just about scraping the bottom in depths of under 2 metres! Eventually dropping the hook around 7pm it took a while to grip in the coral sand type bottom.

Then it was time for a well earned glass of wine after a long, and at times challenging passage, and to look forward to friends arriving from England in three days time!


BVI’s to Bahamas March 2018
840nm
5 nights, 6 days at sea

We left our mooring in Sopers Hole, Tortola, at 0945 March 28th. It was only then I thought about the length of the passage and realised it was going to be nearly half the time it took us to cross the Atlantic! It was also the longest passage Ben and I would have done with just the two of us. Despite these facts I didn’t feel fazed, I suppose now having quite a few miles under our belts.


The conditions for the trip were predicted to be a substantial swell of around 2.8m and wind at about 60 degrees off the bow for the first day, then coming around to behind us by day two with the swell dropping off. Sounded great! However we were well aware by now that weather forecasts (even when using Predict Wind which compares 4 forecasts) are quite often wrong.


So we set off hoping for the best. We had a good start, with about 17 kts on the beam and we were cruising along at about 6 kts but once out of the protection of the islands the conditions were as expected and I started to feel the effects of seasickness, which is usual for me when the wind and swell are forward of the beam. Ben very rarely feels seasick but having been in the calms of the Virgin Islands for a few days he felt he’d lost his sea legs and also felt pretty rough.
We popped some seasickness pills and I lay down for a bit which normally sorts it out, even if temporarily.


After lunch the wind picked up a bit, and hovering around 20kts Ben put a reef in the main. The angle was definitely more north than forecast but we hoped it would come around by the next day.


That night turned out to be rough! The swell increased and we slammed into it all night. The wind was nearly double what was forecast and we overheard on the radio a rescue in progress which was slightly unnerving.


We stupidly hadn’t pre prepared any meals so I battled away in the galley, getting thrown about when attempting to stand, so everything and to be done sitting down or keeping low when moving around. Nightmare. I tend to get pretty grumpy when I’m either seasick or struggling with the conditions and I remember saying at one particularly heated moment “I wouldn’t recommend ANYONE going sailing like this!”. Poor Ben. Thankfully he usually just laughs which is a good thing in the long run ha!

That night I was pretty useless, only feeling half ok if I stayed lying down and only sleeping fitfully. Before I’d ever been seasick I used to think it was just feeling a bit queasy and surely you can just man up and plough on through…but the truth is it can be really crippling, to the point you just sort of shut down. Ben ended up taking watch all night, just cat napping for 15 minutes at a time. Bloody nightmare. We took a bit of a battering actually over the next couple of days. The wind dropped off a bit but left an uncomfortable swell.
The wind didn’t come around properly until the forth morning when we could finally get the twin headsails out! Bliss.

Everything was calm again, happy Nicki and a happy captain as he described it like a magic carpet ride, so smooth you can almost forget you’re at sea.

Sailing downwind is the best, life was good again. However with such smooth conditions there tends to be a lack of things to do. We watched a lot of films and read a lot. Baked bread, made soup, had showers on deck. And then the generator broke down (same old story) so that kept Ben busy for a bit! After a bit of fiddling it turned out to be low oil which automatically makes it cut out, which is good…but we’re still to figure out the source of the leak. However the whole thing needs rebuilding sometime soon so it’ll probably wait till then.

I was sent up to the bow to watch for bombies and try to distinguish the different colours of water, determining depth (dark blues through to lightish blue is ok, but very light blue or greeny brown means it’s too shallow). We had our depth sounders as well but spotting the bombies in time to steer clear was quite nerve-wracking!


We picked our way through the Sound, just about scraping the bottom in depths of under 2 metres! Eventually dropping the hook around 7pm it took a while to grip in the coral sand type bottom.

Then it was time for a well earned glass of wine after a long, and at times challenging passage, and to look forward to friends arriving from England in three days time!


BVI’s to Bahamas March 2018
840nm
5 nights, 6 days at sea

We left our mooring in Sopers Hole, Tortola, at 0945 March 28th. It was only then I thought about the length of the passage and realised it was going to be nearly half the time it took us to cross the Atlantic! It was also the longest passage Ben and I would have done with just the two of us. Despite these facts I didn’t feel fazed, I suppose now having quite a few miles under our belts.


The conditions for the trip were predicted to be a substantial swell of around 2.8m and wind at about 60 degrees off the bow for the first day, then coming around to behind us by day two with the swell dropping off. Sounded great! However we were well aware by now that weather forecasts (even when using Predict Wind which compares 4 forecasts) are quite often wrong.


So we set off hoping for the best. We had a good start, with about 17 kts on the beam and we were cruising along at about 6 kts but once out of the protection of the islands the conditions were as expected and I started to feel the effects of seasickness, which is usual for me when the wind and swell are forward of the beam. Ben very rarely feels seasick but having been in the calms of the Virgin Islands for a few days he felt he’d lost his sea legs and also felt pretty rough.
We popped some seasickness pills and I lay down for a bit which normally sorts it out, even if temporarily.


After lunch the wind picked up a bit, and hovering around 20kts Ben put a reef in the main. The angle was definitely more north than forecast but we hoped it would come around by the next day.


That night turned out to be rough! The swell increased and we slammed into it all night. The wind was nearly double what was forecast and we overheard on the radio a rescue in progress which was slightly unnerving.


We stupidly hadn’t pre prepared any meals so I battled away in the galley, getting thrown about when attempting to stand, so everything and to be done sitting down or keeping low when moving around. Nightmare. I tend to get pretty grumpy when I’m either seasick or struggling with the conditions and I remember saying at one particularly heated moment “I wouldn’t recommend ANYONE going sailing like this!”. Poor Ben. Thankfully he usually just laughs which is a good thing in the long run ha!

That night I was pretty useless, only feeling half ok if I stayed lying down and only sleeping fitfully. Before I’d ever been seasick I used to think it was just feeling a bit queasy and surely you can just man up and plough on through…but the truth is it can be really crippling, to the point you just sort of shut down. Ben ended up taking watch all night, just cat napping for 15 minutes at a time. Bloody nightmare. We took a bit of a battering actually over the next couple of days. The wind dropped off a bit but left an uncomfortable swell.
The wind didn’t come around properly until the forth morning when we could finally get the twin headsails out! Bliss.

Everything was calm again, happy Nicki and a happy captain as he described it like a magic carpet ride, so smooth you can almost forget you’re at sea.

Sailing downwind is the best, life was good again. However with such smooth conditions there tends to be a lack of things to do. We watched a lot of films and read a lot. Baked bread, made soup, had showers on deck. And then the generator broke down (same old story) so that kept Ben busy for a bit! After a bit of fiddling it turned out to be low oil which automatically makes it cut out, which is good…but we’re still to figure out the source of the leak. However the whole thing needs rebuilding sometime soon so it’ll probably wait till then.

I was sent up to the bow to watch for bombies and try to distinguish the different colours of water, determining depth (dark blues through to lightish blue is ok, but very light blue or greeny brown means it’s too shallow). We had our depth sounders as well but spotting the bombies in time to steer clear was quite nerve-wracking!


We picked our way through the Sound, just about scraping the bottom in depths of under 2 metres! Eventually dropping the hook around 7pm it took a while to grip in the coral sand type bottom.

Then it was time for a well earned glass of wine after a long, and at times challenging passage, and to look forward to friends arriving from England in three days time!


BVI’s to Bahamas March 2018
840nm
5 nights, 6 days at sea

We left our mooring in Sopers Hole, Tortola, at 0945 March 28th. It was only then I thought about the length of the passage and realised it was going to be nearly half the time it took us to cross the Atlantic! It was also the longest passage Ben and I would have done with just the two of us. Despite these facts I didn’t feel fazed, I suppose now having quite a few miles under our belts.


The conditions for the trip were predicted to be a substantial swell of around 2.8m and wind at about 60 degrees off the bow for the first day, then coming around to behind us by day two with the swell dropping off. Sounded great! However we were well aware by now that weather forecasts (even when using Predict Wind which compares 4 forecasts) are quite often wrong.


So we set off hoping for the best. We had a good start, with about 17 kts on the beam and we were cruising along at about 6 kts but once out of the protection of the islands the conditions were as expected and I started to feel the effects of seasickness, which is usual for me when the wind and swell are forward of the beam. Ben very rarely feels seasick but having been in the calms of the Virgin Islands for a few days he felt he’d lost his sea legs and also felt pretty rough.
We popped some seasickness pills and I lay down for a bit which normally sorts it out, even if temporarily.


After lunch the wind picked up a bit, and hovering around 20kts Ben put a reef in the main. The angle was definitely more north than forecast but we hoped it would come around by the next day.


That night turned out to be rough! The swell increased and we slammed into it all night. The wind was nearly double what was forecast and we overheard on the radio a rescue in progress which was slightly unnerving.


We stupidly hadn’t pre prepared any meals so I battled away in the galley, getting thrown about when attempting to stand, so everything and to be done sitting down or keeping low when moving around. Nightmare. I tend to get pretty grumpy when I’m either seasick or struggling with the conditions and I remember saying at one particularly heated moment “I wouldn’t recommend ANYONE going sailing like this!”. Poor Ben. Thankfully he usually just laughs which is a good thing in the long run ha!

That night I was pretty useless, only feeling half ok if I stayed lying down and only sleeping fitfully. Before I’d ever been seasick I used to think it was just feeling a bit queasy and surely you can just man up and plough on through…but the truth is it can be really crippling, to the point you just sort of shut down. Ben ended up taking watch all night, just cat napping for 15 minutes at a time. Bloody nightmare. We took a bit of a battering actually over the next couple of days. The wind dropped off a bit but left an uncomfortable swell.
The wind didn’t come around properly until the forth morning when we could finally get the twin headsails out! Bliss.

Everything was calm again, happy Nicki and a happy captain as he described it like a magic carpet ride, so smooth you can almost forget you’re at sea.

Sailing downwind is the best, life was good again. However with such smooth conditions there tends to be a lack of things to do. We watched a lot of films and read a lot. Baked bread, made soup, had showers on deck. And then the generator broke down (same old story) so that kept Ben busy for a bit! After a bit of fiddling it turned out to be low oil which automatically makes it cut out, which is good…but we’re still to figure out the source of the leak. However the whole thing needs rebuilding sometime soon so it’ll probably wait till then.

I was sent up to the bow to watch for bombies and try to distinguish the different colours of water, determining depth (dark blues through to lightish blue is ok, but very light blue or greeny brown means it’s too shallow). We had our depth sounders as well but spotting the bombies in time to steer clear was quite nerve-wracking!


We picked our way through the Sound, just about scraping the bottom in depths of under 2 metres! Eventually dropping the hook around 7pm it took a while to grip in the coral sand type bottom.

Then it was time for a well earned glass of wine after a long, and at times challenging passage, and to look forward to friends arriving from England in three days time!


BVI’s to Bahamas March 2018
840nm
5 nights, 6 days at sea

We left our mooring in Sopers Hole, Tortola, at 0945 March 28th. It was only then I thought about the length of the passage and realised it was going to be nearly half the time it took us to cross the Atlantic! It was also the longest passage Ben and I would have done with just the two of us. Despite these facts I didn’t feel fazed, I suppose now having quite a few miles under our belts.


The conditions for the trip were predicted to be a substantial swell of around 2.8m and wind at about 60 degrees off the bow for the first day, then coming around to behind us by day two with the swell dropping off. Sounded great! However we were well aware by now that weather forecasts (even when using Predict Wind which compares 4 forecasts) are quite often wrong.


So we set off hoping for the best. We had a good start, with about 17 kts on the beam and we were cruising along at about 6 kts but once out of the protection of the islands the conditions were as expected and I started to feel the effects of seasickness, which is usual for me when the wind and swell are forward of the beam. Ben very rarely feels seasick but having been in the calms of the Virgin Islands for a few days he felt he’d lost his sea legs and also felt pretty rough.
We popped some seasickness pills and I lay down for a bit which normally sorts it out, even if temporarily.


After lunch the wind picked up a bit, and hovering around 20kts Ben put a reef in the main. The angle was definitely more north than forecast but we hoped it would come around by the next day.


That night turned out to be rough! The swell increased and we slammed into it all night. The wind was nearly double what was forecast and we overheard on the radio a rescue in progress which was slightly unnerving.


We stupidly hadn’t pre prepared any meals so I battled away in the galley, getting thrown about when attempting to stand, so everything and to be done sitting down or keeping low when moving around. Nightmare. I tend to get pretty grumpy when I’m either seasick or struggling with the conditions and I remember saying at one particularly heated moment “I wouldn’t recommend ANYONE going sailing like this!”. Poor Ben. Thankfully he usually just laughs which is a good thing in the long run ha!

That night I was pretty useless, only feeling half ok if I stayed lying down and only sleeping fitfully. Before I’d ever been seasick I used to think it was just feeling a bit queasy and surely you can just man up and plough on through…but the truth is it can be really crippling, to the point you just sort of shut down. Ben ended up taking watch all night, just cat napping for 15 minutes at a time. Bloody nightmare. We took a bit of a battering actually over the next couple of days. The wind dropped off a bit but left an uncomfortable swell.
The wind didn’t come around properly until the forth morning when we could finally get the twin headsails out! Bliss.

Everything was calm again, happy Nicki and a happy captain as he described it like a magic carpet ride, so smooth you can almost forget you’re at sea.

Sailing downwind is the best, life was good again. However with such smooth conditions there tends to be a lack of things to do. We watched a lot of films and read a lot. Baked bread, made soup, had showers on deck. And then the generator broke down (same old story) so that kept Ben busy for a bit! After a bit of fiddling it turned out to be low oil which automatically makes it cut out, which is good…but we’re still to figure out the source of the leak. However the whole thing needs rebuilding sometime soon so it’ll probably wait till then.

I was sent up to the bow to watch for bombies and try to distinguish the different colours of water, determining depth (dark blues through to lightish blue is ok, but very light blue or greeny brown means it’s too shallow). We had our depth sounders as well but spotting the bombies in time to steer clear was quite nerve-wracking!


We picked our way through the Sound, just about scraping the bottom in depths of under 2 metres! Eventually dropping the hook around 7pm it took a while to grip in the coral sand type bottom.

Then it was time for a well earned glass of wine after a long, and at times challenging passage, and to look forward to friends arriving from England in three days time!


BVI’s to Bahamas March 2018
840nm
5 nights, 6 days at sea

We left our mooring in Sopers Hole, Tortola, at 0945 March 28th. It was only then I thought about the length of the passage and realised it was going to be nearly half the time it took us to cross the Atlantic! It was also the longest passage Ben and I would have done with just the two of us. Despite these facts I didn’t feel fazed, I suppose now having quite a few miles under our belts.


The conditions for the trip were predicted to be a substantial swell of around 2.8m and wind at about 60 degrees off the bow for the first day, then coming around to behind us by day two with the swell dropping off. Sounded great! However we were well aware by now that weather forecasts (even when using Predict Wind which compares 4 forecasts) are quite often wrong.


So we set off hoping for the best. We had a good start, with about 17 kts on the beam and we were cruising along at about 6 kts but once out of the protection of the islands the conditions were as expected and I started to feel the effects of seasickness, which is usual for me when the wind and swell are forward of the beam. Ben very rarely feels seasick but having been in the calms of the Virgin Islands for a few days he felt he’d lost his sea legs and also felt pretty rough.
We popped some seasickness pills and I lay down for a bit which normally sorts it out, even if temporarily.


After lunch the wind picked up a bit, and hovering around 20kts Ben put a reef in the main. The angle was definitely more north than forecast but we hoped it would come around by the next day.


That night turned out to be rough! The swell increased and we slammed into it all night. The wind was nearly double what was forecast and we overheard on the radio a rescue in progress which was slightly unnerving.


We stupidly hadn’t pre prepared any meals so I battled away in the galley, getting thrown about when attempting to stand, so everything and to be done sitting down or keeping low when moving around. Nightmare. I tend to get pretty grumpy when I’m either seasick or struggling with the conditions and I remember saying at one particularly heated moment “I wouldn’t recommend ANYONE going sailing like this!”. Poor Ben. Thankfully he usually just laughs which is a good thing in the long run ha!

That night I was pretty useless, only feeling half ok if I stayed lying down and only sleeping fitfully. Before I’d ever been seasick I used to think it was just feeling a bit queasy and surely you can just man up and plough on through…but the truth is it can be really crippling, to the point you just sort of shut down. Ben ended up taking watch all night, just cat napping for 15 minutes at a time. Bloody nightmare. We took a bit of a battering actually over the next couple of days. The wind dropped off a bit but left an uncomfortable swell.
The wind didn’t come around properly until the forth morning when we could finally get the twin headsails out! Bliss.

Everything was calm again, happy Nicki and a happy captain as he described it like a magic carpet ride, so smooth you can almost forget you’re at sea.

Sailing downwind is the best, life was good again. However with such smooth conditions there tends to be a lack of things to do. We watched a lot of films and read a lot. Baked bread, made soup, had showers on deck. And then the generator broke down (same old story) so that kept Ben busy for a bit! After a bit of fiddling it turned out to be low oil which automatically makes it cut out, which is good…but we’re still to figure out the source of the leak. However the whole thing needs rebuilding sometime soon so it’ll probably wait till then.

I was sent up to the bow to watch for bombies and try to distinguish the different colours of water, determining depth (dark blues through to lightish blue is ok, but very light blue or greeny brown means it’s too shallow). We had our depth sounders as well but spotting the bombies in time to steer clear was quite nerve-wracking!


We picked our way through the Sound, just about scraping the bottom in depths of under 2 metres! Eventually dropping the hook around 7pm it took a while to grip in the coral sand type bottom.

Then it was time for a well earned glass of wine after a long, and at times challenging passage, and to look forward to friends arriving from England in three days time!


BVI’s to Bahamas March 2018
840nm
5 nights, 6 days at sea

We left our mooring in Sopers Hole, Tortola, at 0945 March 28th. It was only then I thought about the length of the passage and realised it was going to be nearly half the time it took us to cross the Atlantic! It was also the longest passage Ben and I would have done with just the two of us. Despite these facts I didn’t feel fazed, I suppose now having quite a few miles under our belts.


The conditions for the trip were predicted to be a substantial swell of around 2.8m and wind at about 60 degrees off the bow for the first day, then coming around to behind us by day two with the swell dropping off. Sounded great! However we were well aware by now that weather forecasts (even when using Predict Wind which compares 4 forecasts) are quite often wrong.


So we set off hoping for the best. We had a good start, with about 17 kts on the beam and we were cruising along at about 6 kts but once out of the protection of the islands the conditions were as expected and I started to feel the effects of seasickness, which is usual for me when the wind and swell are forward of the beam. Ben very rarely feels seasick but having been in the calms of the Virgin Islands for a few days he felt he’d lost his sea legs and also felt pretty rough.
We popped some seasickness pills and I lay down for a bit which normally sorts it out, even if temporarily.


After lunch the wind picked up a bit, and hovering around 20kts Ben put a reef in the main. The angle was definitely more north than forecast but we hoped it would come around by the next day.


That night turned out to be rough! The swell increased and we slammed into it all night. The wind was nearly double what was forecast and we overheard on the radio a rescue in progress which was slightly unnerving.


We stupidly hadn’t pre prepared any meals so I battled away in the galley, getting thrown about when attempting to stand, so everything and to be done sitting down or keeping low when moving around. Nightmare. I tend to get pretty grumpy when I’m either seasick or struggling with the conditions and I remember saying at one particularly heated moment “I wouldn’t recommend ANYONE going sailing like this!”. Poor Ben. Thankfully he usually just laughs which is a good thing in the long run ha!

That night I was pretty useless, only feeling half ok if I stayed lying down and only sleeping fitfully. Before I’d ever been seasick I used to think it was just feeling a bit queasy and surely you can just man up and plough on through…but the truth is it can be really crippling, to the point you just sort of shut down. Ben ended up taking watch all night, just cat napping for 15 minutes at a time. Bloody nightmare. We took a bit of a battering actually over the next couple of days. The wind dropped off a bit but left an uncomfortable swell.
The wind didn’t come around properly until the forth morning when we could finally get the twin headsails out! Bliss.

Everything was calm again, happy Nicki and a happy captain as he described it like a magic carpet ride, so smooth you can almost forget you’re at sea.

Sailing downwind is the best, life was good again. However with such smooth conditions there tends to be a lack of things to do. We watched a lot of films and read a lot. Baked bread, made soup, had showers on deck. And then the generator broke down (same old story) so that kept Ben busy for a bit! After a bit of fiddling it turned out to be low oil which automatically makes it cut out, which is good…but we’re still to figure out the source of the leak. However the whole thing needs rebuilding sometime soon so it’ll probably wait till then.

I was sent up to the bow to watch for bombies and try to distinguish the different colours of water, determining depth (dark blues through to lightish blue is ok, but very light blue or greeny brown means it’s too shallow). We had our depth sounders as well but spotting the bombies in time to steer clear was quite nerve-wracking!


We picked our way through the Sound, just about scraping the bottom in depths of under 2 metres! Eventually dropping the hook around 7pm it took a while to grip in the coral sand type bottom.

Then it was time for a well earned glass of wine after a long, and at times challenging passage, and to look forward to friends arriving from England in three days time!


Watch the video: Ελληνικά Νησιά Τοπ-5. Travelstories